We got an early start on Monday. Our first stop was a bike trail that wasn’t too far away. The Perkiomen trail, named after The Perkiomen Creek is Lenapi and means “where the cranberries grow”. The ride was pleasant, especially after two days of cold and rain. I rode ahead while Cathie took her time on her trike. We came back from the bike ride and ate lunch. Then we were off to the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
I have so many fond memories of the Art Museum. Sure, the artwork inside is wonderful. But the building itself and its location in the city is what I remember most. Years ago I spent many a summer night folk dancing in the courtyard of the art museum. It was the perfect place—with water fountains in the courtyard and at the bottom of the steps. When driving into the city it’s sitting there on a hill, at the end of Boathouse Row, welcoming me back.
Cathie and I couldn’t have explored all 240,000 art objects in one afternoon. We picked a few collections and browsed in some of the adjacent rooms. So many amazing pieces of work.
Tanis, by Daniel Garber, 1915
Unicorns Came Down to the Sea, by Kay Sage Tanguy, 1948
On Tuesday we head to the Hudson Valley for a night before going back home.
That’s the weather forecast for the Philadelphia area this Memorial Day weekend. The rain started Friday afternoon and is expected to last through Sunday. Highs in the 50s for Saturday and Sunday. We’re taking it easy. On Saturday I did the laundry and Cathie did some planning for a program she is coordinating for the synagogue. Sunday was more of the same.
Friday was a busy day. We started by going to Liberty Trike, the company that built Cathie’s trike. The power wasn’t working and we thought it would be best to have the experts look at it. They found the problem quickly and fixed it in less than half an hour. Then we took off for a short bike ride. I wanted to squeeze in a ride before the rain started. I also wanted to make sure that Cathie’s trike was working fine. We rode on the Delaware canal trail. It wasn’t too far from Liberty Trike, which is why we chose it. On the ride we passed lots of geese, including several families. The parents squawked at us as we passed, protecting their young. Geese can be very threatening, even when on a bike.
Geese on the Delaware Canal Trail
After the bike ride, we went back to the RV, took showers and headed off to dinner with friends, Elyse and David. It was a lovely evening; we felt pre-pandemic normal. We were their first post-pandemic dinner guests. We talked late into the night and probably could have talked longer if we didn’t have to drive back to the RV in the rain. By the time we got back, the RV had cooled down, so we turned on the electric heater to warm up.
We hope to have a more interesting day on Monday. We’ll probably take a bike ride and do something else outside.
We just finished six days in the Harrisburg/Hershey area. On Wednesday we went to Bird-in-Hand, which has a large Amish and Mennonite community. There is a farmers market there which Cathie thought would be fun to visit. The many shops included canned goods, a leather shop, meats, fresh produce, cheese, candles, quilts, candy, jewelry and others. We bought some interesting jams and some vegetables. After the farmers market we found a nice park where we ate lunch.
I rode on a pretty bike trail that bordered the Susquehanna River. I remember passing over that river many a time in my travels from Philly to Penn State. It’s a very wide and shallow river. I didn’t realize that it’s the longest river on the East Coast. The name comes from the Len’api tribe and means Oyster River. The oyster beds were at the mouth of the river, in the Chesapeake Bay. The bike trail was a 14 mile stretch that meandered through wooded areas and farmland. It was a very nice ride.
Several folks have referred to our time away as a “vacation”. For me traveling in the RV is not a vacation. To me a vacation is taking a break from the every-day, like a trip to a Caribbean island or a taking a cruise. I don’t ski or golf, but I imagine a week at a ski or golf resort would feel like a vacation. So what is it about our RV traveling that doesn’t feel like a vacation? I think it’s this: when you’re on vacation and something stops working, you report it to someone who’ll take care of it while your off at the beach or sight seeing for the day. In the RV if something isn’t working, you are the someone who has to take care of it.
On this trip the first thing that wasn’t working was my eTrike. We were in Durham, NC and we headed out on Saturday morning, ahead of visiting with Michael’s cousins Chelley and Bob (which was a very lovely and interesting visit) for our first bike ride of this trip. But my trusty Liberty Trike wouldn’t go. The display lit up, so it wasn’t a problem with the battery. There was no error message, so there was no indication there was something wrong. But when I turned the throttle, nothing. Michael rechecked all the connections, unplugged and re-plugged them multiple times, still nothing. So much for a bike ride 🙁. Michael took a short bike ride on his human- powered bicycle while I hung out in the parking lot.
If we were at home we would have taken the Trike to the ebike store in Providence. Maybe they couldn’t fix it, but they most likely could diagnose it. Instead I contacted Liberty Trike, who has terrific customer service. The very nice tech, Sean, tried hard to diagnose the problem over the phone, but no luck. We were heading to the Smokies next, so he gave us a resource in Newport, TN.
Mark at ‘Power on Cycling’ works only on electric recumbent bikes, so he didn’t think he’d be able to fix it, but he was willing to try to diagnose it. We dropped off the Trike and headed to Cades Cove for the day. He figured out it was a bad connection in the 3-in-1 cable. He didn’t have the right cable, so he couldn’t replace it, but at least we knew it was just a bad cable and not a bad motor.
Some more back and forth with Liberty and we have an appointment on the 28th to take it to Liberty Trike in Croydon, PA. I’m hoping to get in a bike ride or 2 while we’re in the Philadelphia area over Memorial Day weekend before heading home.
The other bigger headache has been addressing the water that appeared on the bathroom floor. What an ordeal it’s been getting that diagnosed and fixed! If we had a water leak at home we’d call Dave the plumber, who would have been at the house that day. Instead it took lots of time on the phone locating the mobile tech who came from an hour way and replaced 2 hoses in the bathroom. He recommended we buy a fan (at the local Dollar General) and run it all day to dry things out. Several days later water was still appearing on the floor.
By this time we were in Lynchburg VA and, lucky for us, there was a mobile tech at the campground. Dan found the hose located under the bed had a bad washer and coupling. He was able to replace it and recommended getting a second fan (at another Dollar General) and running both fans all day. Poor Michael has had to do lots of mopping up and towel drying hard to reach surfaces. And there’s the worry of mold and mildew forming. Not my idea of a vacation.
All in all, RV traveling is not a vacation – it’s an adventure.
Not all KOA campgrounds are the same. KOA, or Kampgrounds of America is one of the large chains of campgrounds in the US. They follow a cookie cutter approach to camping, which isn’t exactly the type of campground that interests us. However, we found a wonderful KOA in Lynchburg, VA. It was on a rural road with no houses around. Our site was next to a wooded area of the campground. It was peaceful and relaxing there. Even the internet was good. So we tried our luck and booked another KOA, in Elizabethtown, PA. Not as nice. You can see the comparison pictures to get a sense of the difference in the campgrounds.
KOA in Lynchburg, VA
Today was a slow, catchup day. We did some chores in and around the RV. We read, we sat outside. When it got too hot, we came in and turned on the air conditioner. We went to town to get some items and picked up some Chinese food for dinner. That kind of day.
Since this is a catch up day, I’ll mention a couple of places we visited in Virginia. Natural Bridgeis a geological formation that has some colonial history. George Washington came to this area as a surveyor in 1750. He carved his initials into the wall of the bridge. I’m not sure if that was common for surveyors in those days but it is an interesting tidbit. Thomas Jefferson purchased land in the area, including the bridge, from King George in 1774. Today it’s a state park. The day we visited it was hot but in the shade of the state park it was cool and pleasant. We met a couple from Milford, MA and chatted next to Cedar Creek, which formed the Natural Bridge many years ago.
Natural Bridge, VA
On Thursday we toured Lynchburg. We walked through a lovely garden behind the Anne Spencer House, an African American poet of the Harlem Renaissance. We walked on Riverwalk Trail which borders the James River. I got a picture of Cathie investigating the Love artwork on the Riverwalk.
Lynchburg, VA
It’s now summer weather. Today was in the high 80’s. Tomorrow looks to be much of the same. That’s not the best weather for Cathie. Only a week ago we were in the hills of Tennessee and needed to turn on the heat in the morning. In some ways it will be nice to get back to New England.
The coronavirus is still playing havoc with vacation plans. As we were heading to Pigeon Forge we happened upon the Bush’s Baked Beans Manufacturing plant in Chestnut Hill, TN. I really like Bush’s, it’s the only baked beans I buy. I didn’t know they’re Tennessee based. I was happy to see the plant with a huge can of beans on top. And, they have a Visitor Center! I excitedly pulled into the parking lot, hoping they’d be offering free samples. Yum. But, the Visitor Center was closed due to Covid. Darn! Disappointed again. Covid doesn’t care that we will likely never be out this way again. 🙁
We spent most of the day in and around the National Park yesterday. There were a few interesting things we happened upon.
We drove on the Foothills Parkway, a pretty road that is close to but not connected to the National Park. The Parkway has an interesting history. It was planned over 75 years ago and is still not completed. The longest stretch of the completed road is ~33 miles, which twists and turns, providing great views of the Smokies.
Motorcycles and Jeeps were everywhere! There was a parade of motorcycles on the Foothills Parkway. We must have seen over 50 riding together down the road. A few minutes later there was another parade of just as many Jeeps! People love clubs.
We witnessed a wedding in a parking lot. No, it’s not as bad as you would imagine. The parking lot was actually a turnoff on the Foothills Parkway with the Smoky Mountains as the backdrop. There were 20 or so in attendance. We imagined that the couple were avid hikers and this was a good way to celebrate their wedding. Another 50 yards away there was a group of Jeep owners congregating and sharing libations.
Lunch Stop
We stopped for lunch on the Foothills Parkway. The pictures above are a poor representation of the grandeur. The mountains are just beautiful. I think I finally understand the allure of the Smokies and why it’s the most popular National Park in the US.
We took a short walk on a path that was dubbed an ‘Easy Trail’. I commented that whoever put up the sign claiming it was easy clearly didn’t have any physical disabilities. We managed, over the tree roots but stopped at the small stream as Cathie was hesitant to step on the rocks to cross it. Given the mis-labeling of the trail, it was still a nice walk.
We went into the Visitors Center at the park and experienced some of the confusion around the recent change in the mask mandate from the CDC. All the staff were wearing masks and there were hand sanitizer stations but the staff made a point of stating that the hand sanitizer and masks were now optional. I think they had just changed the policy.
Little River
In the park, we drove along the Little River, which we decided is mis-named. It’s actually 60 miles long, so I wouldn’t classify that as ‘little’. Naming aside, the river was just spectacular, with the water rolling over rocks, twisting and turning and providing wonderful views from the road.
The Cherokee called them Shaconage (pronounced Sha-Kon-O-Hey), which translates to the “place of the blue smoke.” The Cherokee believed these mountains were a refuge, and a mythical and spiritual place. During the Indian Removal Period of the 1800’s, the Trail of Tears, these mountains meant safety from pursuing soldiers. Today, we know them as the Great Smoky Mountains.
On the road to Clingman’s Dome
Today I drove to Clingman’s Dome, which is the highest point on the Appalachian Trail and the third highest point in the Eastern US. The view was spectacular. The first part in getting there was driving up a long and twisty road. From the parking lot, there was a half mile walk up a steep, paved road and to the Lookout Tower. Being at the top was incredible. Pictures don’t do it justice. It reminded me of being at the Grand Canyon over 30 years ago. I had the same awe-inspiring feeling back then.
Lookout TowerFrom Clingman’s Dome. Notice the parking lot in the distance.The Appalachian Trail runs through the Smoky Mountains
Yesterday we went to Cades Cove, a flat valley nestled in the mountains. This area was populated by white settlers in the early 1800’s. Cherokee lived in this area but had left by the time whites moved in. About a hundred years later, Tennessee bought the land from the farmers and gave it to the federal government for park use. Today, Cades Cove is part of the National Park Service and has a nice loop road for tourists. There are a number of wildlife in Cades Cove. We had three black bear sightings and saw some wild turkeys. Unfortunately, there were too many cars the day we went. It was stop and go, mostly stop, for most of the loop road, even though it was mid-week in May. (Cades Loop actually gets about 2 million visitors a year.) On Wednesdays, the loop road is closed to motorized traffic. Then, walkers and bicyclists can explore the area in a much more relaxed setting. If we ever come back here, we’ll do that.
On Thursday (May 6th) we drove to Richmond. We stopped for a picnic lunch at Libby Hill Park, overlooking the city. I was happy to be reminded that Richmond is in the process of removing its Confederate symbols. There was a monument in the park dedicated to Confederate Soldiers and Sailors. The statue atop the tall base had been removed, only the base remains.
I wanted to see the State capitol; I had read that it was a beautiful building. Unfortunately, our visit was badly timed. Three buildings at Capitol Square are undergoing major renovations and we couldn’t get anywhere near the Capitol building because of all the construction. We were pleased to see that construction is being done by Gilbane, the RI based construction company that is now an international construction company, but still has its main office in Providence.
We found our way to the Black History Museum & Cultural Center, located in the historic Jackson Ward, a predominantly black neighborhood dating back to the end of the Civil War. The neighborhood is home to the oldest continuously operated African-American owned bank. The bank was founded as St. Luke Penny Savings Bank in 1903 by Maggie Walker, a prominent business woman.
It was a terrific museum. The first floor offered a wonderful overview of black history, including a Black history timeline and exhibits on Emancipation and Reconstruction, Civil Rights and the Richmond 34, a group of students who participated in a lunch counter sit-in at a downtown Richmond department store in 1960.
In 1944, eleven years before Rosa Parks, Irene Morgan refused to give up her seat on a bus headed to Virginia. Newly elected African American legislators at the Constitutional Convention in Richmond, 1868.The Bond, bronze by Brian R. Owens
The 2nd floor had a special exhibit on 7 decades of Virginia artists and musicians who contributed to the development of Jazz. I especially enjoyed learning about Bill “Bojangles” Robinson, who changed the style of tap-dancing by stepping up on his toes making the dance style lighter. He didn’t perform in black face, which was common at the time and he regularly performed with white actors. He’s well known for appearing with Shirley Temple in her movies.
Bojangles was also known for his generosity. In 1933, while visiting his hometown of Richmond, he witnessed children having to cross a busy intersection. He went to the city to propose installing a traffic light at the intersection, providing his own money to fund it. Despite being the most highly paid African American performer of the 1st half of the 20th century, he died penniless.
The museum was small, but impressive. I’m glad we spent some time there.
I’m sitting in a chair on a small farm outside of Greensboro, NC. The temperature is in the mid 70’s and is sunny with a nice breeze. There is a small pond nearby. I have nowhere to go and nothing to do. It feels like heaven.
The owners of the farm are part of an ingenious membership club called Harvest Hosts. We pay an annual fee and are able to stay (one night at a time) at farms, wineries, golf clubs and other places that have enough space to accommodate an RV. We don’t pay anything to stay, although we are expected to purchase something. For tonight’s stay, we will buy some of the wooden crafts that the farm owner made. It’s a nice proposition for everyone.
Outside the NC Museum of Art
Yesterday we were in Durham, NC, visiting my cousins Chelley and Bob. I actually have two Chel and Bob cousins, one on my mother’s side and one on my father’s side. We visited Chelle and Bob on my father’s side when we were at my sister’s in MD. This Chelley and Bob decided to retire in the Raleigh/Durham area about five years ago after living in Augusta, GA, Teaneck, NJ and NYC. Raleigh/Durham is a nice area with lots of cultural activities. The four of us drove to the North Carolina Museum of Art, about 30 minutes from their house. Part of the museum is free, so we went there. Then we took a tour of Raleigh and ordered some Lebanese takeout for dinner. Back at their house, we ate and talked late into the night. It was a rich day and evening.
We had a couple of mechanical hiccups yesterday. There was small pool of water on the bathroom floor. This was the second time we saw water on the floor. I was concerned that maybe there was a leak in the roof. After tracing the leak, it appears to be coming from the water intake to the toilet. I don’t have the tools to repair it, so we called for assistance. Since it was a weekend, no one was available. It’s a slow leak, so I wrapped the hose with a towel. We will contact someone on Monday to get it fixed. We will be at our next stop, in the Smoky Mountains, for a week, so we will have time to schedule the repair. After that experience, we took off for a nearby bike trail but our problems weren’t over. We got to the trailhead, I set up Cathie’s trike and tested it out. At first it worked fine. Then there was no power, even though the display was working. I tested all the connections and made sure it was properly set up, but no joy. Something is wrong with Cathie’s trike. Now we have two items to fix. “RVing is fixing something so that you can drive down the road and have the opportunity to fix something else.” At least nothing is major and nothing is keeping us from driving to the next location.
Tuesday morning, we had an unexpected visitor at our campsite at the Ed Allen’s Campground. A bright yellow chick was chirping away by the tree outside the RV. The chick looked out of place. We assumed it was a baby chicken but we weren’t near any farms, so where did this little one come from?
Things got more interesting when we stepped outside and noticed that it stopped chirping. Michael had a work day planned. The temperature was forecast for a high of 90°, so he set up his laptop outside, inside the pop-up tent. The chick made its way to the tent and made itself comfortable by Michael’s feet. Cathie joined him outside to enjoy the faint breeze. Chickie came over to where Cathie was sitting and climbed up onto her foot. It was a cute little chick, but she isn’t fond of having an animal perched on her foot.
We both wanted to reunite Chickie with its family, but how could we find its peeps? Michael texted the campground manager, asking about a nearby farm that might have lost one of its chicks. She said that she would check but never got back to him.
When we went inside for lunch, Chickie started chirping again. It had definitely latched onto us. It never strayed from Michael’s feet and spent the afternoon nipping at his feet.
Cathie had planned to do laundry that day, so she loaded the laundry into the car, Chickie followed her to the car and it seemed like it wanted to get in. When she drove off towards the laundromat it followed the car as far as its little legs allowed. It was funny, endearing and a little bit sad.
It was such a hot day and we were concerned about its health. Cathie filled a lid with water, placing it in the tent. Chickie pecked a little at the water, but didn’t seem to drink much. Michael crushed up a few sunflower seeds, but that didn’t seem to interest it.
As the day worn on we became more concerned about its chances of survival. Neither one of us was interested in listening to it chirp all night, then getting up in the morning to find a dead chick outside the RV. Michael headed out for a walk at the end of the day, Chickie following him. By this point we thought it was more likely a duckling than a baby chicken. So, we thought it might be better off near the water. Michael made his way to the nearby pond hoping Chickie might be drawn to the water. But it just kept following him, as fast as its little legs could carry it.
As Michael kept walking, the chick slowly fell behind Michael, getting farther and farther back. After a few more minutes of walking, Michael couldn’t see Chickie. Michael finished his walk Chickie-less.
About an hour later, Michael retraced his walk in the car, after picking up the final load of laundry. No sign of Chickie. He also walked the same route a couple times over the next couple of days without seeing it. We’ll never know what happened to Chickie.
We were sad to have left Chickie to fend for itself yet we really had no resources available to care for it. We couldn’t take it with us. We couldn’t feed it. We couldn’t find its family.
We’re at a rural campground halfway between Richmond and Williamsburg. The campground has large sites and most of the sites around us aren’t occupied. So, we’re basically alone. There is a pond on one side of the campground and a creek on the other side. I expected there would be lots of mosquitoes with this much water but that isn’t the case. By the weekend, the campground will be full, with many weekend campers enjoying the outdoors.
Small pond at our campground
Yesterday we toured Williamsburg, Yorktown and Jamestown. In Williamsburg we went to the Folk Arts Museum. It’s a collection of Americana art in all it’s forms, weaving, windmills, pottery, cabinetry and much more. It was more than I expected when walking into the museum. Cathie and I managed to explore less than half of the museum but after a few hours both of us were ‘museumed out’. We then took a drive to Yorktown and Jamestown. The Colonial Parkway is a scenic road that connects the three towns. The road was built between 1930 and 1957 and traveling on it feels like going back in time. The road is bordered by the large trees that are so common in this area, and by the Jamestown River near Jamestown and the York River near Yorktown. I hadn’t realized that the last battle of the Revolutionary War was so close to the first permanent settlement in North America. There is a lot of history in this corner of Virginia.
Colonial Parkway
Today we plan to visit Richmond. The weather shifted overnight. The past few days were hot with weather in the high 80’s. The next few days will have highs in the mid to upper 60’s. That’s much better weather for Cathie.
We had a wonderful week in the DC area filled with family, good food and sightseeing. On Wednesday we visited the National Museum of Women in the Arts. The museum was founded by Wilhelmina Cole and Wallace F. Holladay who started collecting art in the 70s as some art historians began asking, “where are all the women artists?” Assembling art by women artists became their focus and the husband and wife team founded the museum in 1987; it’s the only major museum solely dedicated to championing women through the arts. Its mission is to recognize the achievements of women artists of all eras and nationalities. It’s earliest paintings dated back to the 1600s.
Yael Bartana, b. 1970 Klar Yehezkiel, IsraelFrom the collage ” Indian, Indio, Indigenous” , 1992 by June Quick-To-See Smith
The museum turned over its entire 2nd floor to the works of mixed media artist Sonya Clark. Clark uses ordinary objects to examine race and racial stereotypes. A lot of her work was created from simple black combs. In her “Hair Craft Project” she worked with 12 Richmond based African-American hair stylists who created stunning designs with the hair on Clark’s head. In “Unraveling” she invited audience members to work with her in unraveling the threads of a Confederate flag, “not to destroy the flag but to investigate what it means to take it apart, a metaphor for the slow and deliberate work of unraveling racial dynamics in the United States.” I’m so grateful the museum was open and that we were able to explore its amazing art. (The Smithsonian museums are still closed, scheduled to open in May.)
From “Unraveling” and “The Hair Project”
The National Gallery is still closed. Fortunately the Sculpture Garden is opened. We spent Saturday afternoon there with Tessa. The weather was warm and sunny, perfect for enjoying the lovely, sometimes quirky outdoor sculptures. We drove around the Tidal Basin, the road lined with cherry trees. And although the cherry blossoms have faded, I could easily envision the trees in full bloom. A stop at the MLK memorial capped off our sightseeing.
Marc Chagall, Orphée, 1969, stone and glass mosaic
Thinker on a Rock, bronze sculpture by Barry Flanagan AMOR constructed in 1998 by Robert IndianaMartin Luther King, Jr. Memorial
Of course, the highlight of the week was spending time with Tessa and Dan. Their neighborhood of Woodley Park has many good ethnic food restaurants to choose from. Thursday night’s dinner was from Naan Wise Indian, Friday we had very yummy Mexican from Mayahuel (pronounced ma-ju-el). And on Saturday, after spending the day sightseeing with Tessa, it was dinner from Shouk, a plant based Israeli restaurant. We ended the night with a game of “Monopoly House Divided”, a political themed version of Monopoly. Tessa won, despite (or maybe because of) spending much of the game in jail.
Sunday we spent the day at Marla and Ethan’s in Rockville. We were joined by Chelle and Bob, and Dan and Tessa took the metro to hang out with us for the afternoon. All in all it was a lovely week.
Most of our time this past week has been in ‘The District’, as DC is called in this area. We did some sightseeing over the past few days. Although most indoor events are still closed because of COVID, we found some activities open. Yesterday we went to the Sculpture Garden at the National Gallery of Art. The weather was sunny in the mid-60’s. A number of others were also visiting in the gardens but it wasn’t too crowded. We also drove to the Tidal Basin where there are several monuments. We stopped at the MLK memorial and walked on what felt like hallowed ground. On Thursday we went to the National Museum of Women in the Arts, one of the only indoor museums currently open. One of the floors was devoted to Sonya Clark, a textile artist, who uses thread, fabric, hair and combs to create interesting artwork. Cathie and I were very taken by her work.
From the Sonya Clark collection
We spent a lot of time with Tessa and Dan. Tessa kept saying how much she loves hanging out with her parents, which is sweet. I suspect that Dan isn’t quite as excited to be spending so much time with his girlfriend’s parents. However, it is nice getting to know him better. Last night we went over to their apartment for some takeout dinner and a game of Political Monopoly. It was an interesting take on an old board game, with the added dimension of modern politics thrown in. A fun evening.
At the Sculpture Garden
We have had four very good takeout dinners this week. It was Indian, followed by Mexican, followed by vegan Israeli, followed by vegan Chinese. We aren’t lacking in variety and quality of restaurants. One could amass a sizable belly living here.
Today was a family day. We visited my sister, Marla, and my cousin Chelle. Tessa and Dan came up to join the party. At the end of the day we drove them back to their apartment, said our good-byes to them and headed back to the campsite. Tomorrow we have a relatively short drive to the Richmond area where we will be staying for a few days.